meat and season with salt, pepper, half teaspoon sugar and 2 bay leaves. Bring to a bare simmer, cover tightly and cook over the lowest possible flame (or in a low oven if you prefer) until the meat is deliciously tender and the gravy is dark and rich. Shoulder meat may need as little as 1.5 hours, lesser cuts of meat will need considerably more. Stir occasionally to prevent sticking. When ready, remove the bay and check seasoning. Cool and refrigerate overnight if not to be served on the same day. To finish the dish, bring everything back to room temperature. Add the prepared mushrooms to the stew, pushing them well down into the gravy, then cover the surface with the forcemeat balls and bake without a lid to keep the forcemeat balls really crisp at 200ºC (200 C) gas mark -10ºC or about 25 minutes.