add the snails and about three tablespoons salt. Bring slowly to a boil and simmer six minutes, stirring occasionally. 4. Meanwhile, place the garlic and one teaspoon of salt in a small, heavy bowl. Crush the garlic with a pestle or the back of a heavy spoon to make a paste. Add the oil, pepper (to taste), lemon juice, and six tablespoons cold water. Stir with a whisk to blend. 5. Drain the snails and serve hot with the sauce cold. Note: To eat the snails, pull out the meat with a pick and dip them one at a time in the sauce. The whole snail may be eaten, although the most fastidious prefer to skip the soft after end of the meat, which is the digestive tract. [From "The New York Times International Cookbook."]