thumped on the bottom and, the most important test, the interior temperature measures 200 degrees when an instant-read thermometer is plunged into the center of the loaves. Remove the loaves from the oven and cool on a rack for at least 20 minutes before slicing. While you should wait for the bread to firm up in the cooling process, slathering this bread with butter while it's still warm is a great treat. Store at room temperature. Once sliced, the bread should be turned cut-side down on a cutting board; it will keep at room temperature for about 2 days. For longer storage, wrap airtight and freeze for up to a month. Thaw, still wrapped, at room temperature. 2 Loaves, about 24 slices. This recipe from Leslie Mackie can be found in "Baking With Julia" by Dorie Greenspan (Morrow, $40). ----