Salt and pepper Make a bed of the leeks, cut into large dice, including the tender greens. Add sliced garlic, then apple juice, wine and brandy. Top with chicken thighs and ham or bacon. Place in oven and let simmer, uncovered, for 1 to 1 1/2 hours, or until chicken is tender. Pour off liquid, skim fat, then boil down until it is reduced to an intensely flavored liquid. Add cream, then taste for salt and pepper. Beverage recommendation: Dry cider or sparkling wine. Serves 4. PER SERVING: 400 calories, 24 g protein, 20 g carbohydrate, 22 g fat (10 g saturated), 106 mg cholesterol, 454 mg sodium, 2 g fiber. From the San Francisco Chronicle, 11/3/92.