quarter lb Napa cabbage half ts Salt, kosher half lb Ground chuck ;and half lb Ground top round; OR 1 lb Lamb, ground 1 tb Ginger, fresh; minced 3 tb Scallion; minced 2 tb Soy sauce, thin 3 tb Shao xing 1 tb Sesame oil* half ts Salt, kosher 0.125 ts Pepper, black 0.75 ts Orange peel, fresh; grated half c Oil; for frying 2 c Chicken stock; plus 2 tb Oil; for steam cooking

1 tb Soy sauce, thin 2 tb Vinegar, black or balsamic quarter ts Ginger, fresh; minced quarter ts Sesame oil Filling: Chop the cabbage finely, sprinkle with half teaspoon kosher salt, and toss well to combine. Let stand a little, then drain the liquid and wring it out in cheesecloth to get rid of excess water. Scatter the cabbage in a large bowl, add the beef or lamb, and sprinkle the rest of the filling ingredients (through the orange peel) on top. Stir briskly in one direction only until all is well blended, with chopsticks or a fork, then throw the mixture lightly against the inside of the bowl a few times to compact the mass. For the best flavor, cover airtight with plastic wrap pressed directly on the surface and let stand half an hour at room temperature. Filling the dumplings: Line a baking sheet with no-stick parchment paper to hold the finished dumplings (they don't call 'em pot-stickers for nothing). Fill one wrapper at a time, keeping the remainder covered. Put two level teaspoons of filling off-center in the wrapper (as though you were making enchiladas, and nudge (or nudzh) it with your fingers into a half-moon shape about 5 cm long. This makes the dumplings easier to seal. Fold the wrapper exactly in half over the filling, pinching shut at the midpoint. Beginning to the right of the midpoint, make three tiny pleats on the near side of the wrapper only, folding the pleats toward* the midpoint. After each pleat, pinch the dough to join the far, unpleated side of the wrapper. Pinch the extreme right corner of the arc closed. Now half the dumpling is sealed. Repeat the process to the left of the midpoint, aiming the pleats toward the midpoint again. Pinch the left corner closed, then gently pinch all along the arc to insure it is sealed and to thin the ridge of dough. Pan-frying the dumplings: About 20 minutes before serving, mix the ingredients for the dipping sauce, taste and adjust to your liking, and place it in small individual dip dishes or saucers alongside each place setting. Have two serving platters in a low oven to warm. Heat the skillet over high heat until hot enough to evaporate a bead of water on contact. Add enough oil to coat the bottom with a scant 1 cm of oil, swirl the skillet to glaze it an inch up the sides, then adjust to give an even layer of oil. Reduce the heat to medium. When the oil is hot enough to foam a pinch of dry flour, pick up the dumplings by their tops and quickly arrange them smooth side down in the pan, making concentric rings. Crowd the dumplings a bit; this makes for prettier presentation when you're through. Adjust the heat so they sizzle mildly. Once the dumplings are in place, raise the heat slightly to bring them to a good sizzle and brown the bottoms. Check underneath frequently, and when the bottoms are evenly browned, give the stock mixture a stir and add enough to come halfway up the side of the dumplings. Expect a great hiss and cloud of steam when you add the stock. Adjust the heat to maintain a simmer, and cover the pot. After about seven minutes, lift the lid to peek inside the pot, and when the stock is almost all absorbed by the dumplings, remove the lid. Lift one dumpling with a spatula to check the bottom. If it is not crisp enough to "clink" against a fingernail, then continue to cook for a minute or so more. If there is not enough oil left after steaming to crisp them, add a bit more oil from the side of the pan and swirl to distribute it under the dumplings. When the bottoms are crisp, turn off the heat, move the pan off the burner and loosen the bottoms of the dumplings with the spatula. Invert them onto the serving platter, bottoms up. Serve with the individual dishes of dipping sauce. The Modern Art of Chinese Cooking Barbara Tropp