Boil noodles in unsalted water until "al dente." Drain, flush with cold water until chilled, then roll loosely in a lint-free towel to blot off excess water. Toss noodles with sesame oil and salt, using your hands to coat and separate the strands. Heat a 12-inch well-seasoned or Silverstone heavy skillet over high heat until hot enough to evaporate a bead of water on contact. Add 5 tablespoons of oil, swirl to coat the bottom and sides of the pan, then reduce heat to medium-high. When oil is hot enough to sizzle a single noodle, coil the noodles in a pan then use a spatula to pack them into an even pancake or "pillow." Cover and cook until the bottom is golden, about 5-7 minutes. Uncover, flip the noodle pillow over with a jerk of your wrist, then cover and cook the second side. If the pan seems dry, dribble in the remaining tablespoon of oil around the side of the skillet before covering it. Slide the noodle pillow out of the pan, cut it into quarters, then garnish with a sprinkling of black sesame seeds and vegetables.

Stir-Fried Greens

Soak the dried mushrooms for several hours or overnight in cold water. Drain, rinse, remove any stems, then cut caps into slivers 1/8-inch wide.

Heat a wok or a large heavy skillet over high heat until hot enough to evaporate a bead of water on contact. Add 2 tablespoons of oil, swirl to glaze the pan, then reduce heat to medium-high. Add the Chinese chive tops, garlic and black mushrooms, toss until fully fragrant, then add chanterelles, sliced scallions, and cabbage to the pan. Toss just until vegetables turn supple, about 2 minutes. Add baby bok choy, toss until color deepens and the vegetables are heated through, about 20 seconds. If the pan becomes too dry, dribble in a bit more oil from the side. Fold in the chilis, then turn contents out onto a serving plate, either alongside or on top of the noodle pillow. Caution: Chilis are added for color and are not meant to be eaten whole! If a spicier dish is desired, finely sliver a single chili and stir-fry it with the shallots before stir-frying the remaining vegetables.