"Chowder originated as fish stew. But in areas where seafood was unavailable, resourceful Americans used vegetables. This recipe comes from....Rich Spencer, a chef in the Mount Washington Valley." Peel the parsnips and squash (or sweet potatoes) and cut each into 1 cm dice. Cut the bacon into 1 cm strips and render it in a large saucepan.

When the bacon pieces are lightly browned, transfer with a slotted spoon to paper towels to dry. Discard all but 3 tablespoons af the rendered fat. Add the onion and celery to the pan and cook over medium heat for 3 to 4 minutes, until soft but not browned. Stir in the flour and cook for 1 minute to make a roux. Whisk in the chicken stock and bring to a boil: the mixture will thicken slightly. Add the bouquet garni, cinnamon stick, parsnips and squash. Simmer the chowder for 6 to 8 minutes, or until the vegetables are tender but not soft. Stir in the cream, salt, pepper, cayenne and nutmeg. Just before serving, remove the bouquet garni and cinnamon stick. Ladle the chowder into bowls and sprinkle each with chopped chives and nutmeg. Serves 6 to 8. [Steven Raichlin; The Baltimore Sun, Sept 22, 1991]