-teaspoon water Starting at the tip end, cut the asparagus into 1 1/2-inch lengths with a diagonal rolling cut: slice off the tip at an angle, roll the asparagus about a quarter turn and cut again, and repeat on down the stalk until you reach the tougher base. Discard the bases. Dissolve the cornstarch in the wine in a medium bowl; add the egg white and pepper and beat lightly. Remove the tough white muscle from the edge of each scallop and cut the scallops into 1/4-inch-thick discs. Remove any pin bones from the salmon and slice across the width of the slice (parallel to the backbone) into 1/4-inch-thick rectangles. Add the salmon and scallops to the egg mixture and toss gently to coat. Preheat the oven to 175F and set 2 dinner plates in it to warm. Prepare the Potato Crepes and place 1 on each plate. Keep warm in the oven. Have a clean, dry, heatproof container, such as a saucepan, on the stove with a heat proof sieve on top. Drain the scallops and salmon and discard the marinade. Heat a wok or deep skillet over high heat. When it begins to smoke, add the oil. Wait 30 seconds, then add the seafood (the oil will not be very hot yet; this is intentional). Cook, stirring gently to separate the pieces, until salmon has lost its raw color. Pour the contents of the wok into the sieve. Return the wok to the heat, and in the bit of oil clinging to the pan, stir-fry the ginger and green onion until fragrant. Add the pepper and asparagus and stir-fry until it begins to brown. Add the chicken stock, soy sauce, vinegar and sugar. Cover, and cook until the asparagus is crisp-tender, 2 to 3 minutes depending on size. Remove the cover, return the seafood to the wok, and stir in the cornstarch mixture. Cook until the sauce is slightly thickened. Taste for seasoning and adjust if necessary, then divide the seafood, asparagus and sauce over the potato crepes. Serve immediately Serves 2. From the San Francisco Chronicle, 2/13/91. Note that the potato pancakes require the potatoes to be cooked and cooled ahead of time, which can be done earlier in the day or the night before.