This omelet-noodle combination is a bit of nostalgia for people who loved the Chinese-American restaurants of the '50s and '60s. HEAT 1 TEASPOON OIL in a wok or skillet over high heat; when the pan is nearly smoking, add the sprouts, celery and snow peas. Cook, stirring constantly, for 1 minute and immediately pour the veggies into a work bowl. Add scallions, ham and soy sauce. Sprinkle in cornstarch and mix well. Add eggs and water, and mix. Set the mixture aside. Cook the noodles for 5 minutes in boiling salted water. Drain and set aside. Combine sesame oil, garlic and ginger in a soup pot and place over low heat. Cook 1 minute. Add pepper flakes, broth, clam juice, soy sauce, vinegar and sherry. Cover, increase heat to medium, and boil 5 minutes. Heat oil (about 1 cm depth) in a large skillet over high heat and add 3-ounce ladles of the egg mixture. Cook until edges puff, about 1 minute, flip and cook on the other side for about 30 seconds. Remove omelets and drain on towels. Cover and keep warm while preparing others. When it's time for dinner, divide noodles and broth between 4 soup bowls. Make a bed of shredded lettuce. Arrange omelets on top of lettuce. Toss some cilantro on top and serve. MICHAEL ROBERTS PRODIGY GUEST CHEFS COOKBOOK